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Configure Ultimaker CURA software for use the Creality 3D printer model ENDER 3 If you like it, share it After start CURA (my version is: 3.5.1) you must configure a new printer, in our case is the ENDER 3, for do this follow the steps below. Hello all I am new to Lightburn, I have a Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with a 2.5w Laser mounted and a Dremel Mount for Carving Acrylic and wood. I use Cura for 3D Prints and Repetier for Laser Prints. I have tried other laser software like Inkscape to generate gcodes, and GRBL software but they lack features that Lightburn has. Assembled Ender 3 Pro 3-D Printer I was super excited when I finally placed the order for a Ender 3 Pro 3-D printer. The order was placed on December 22, 2019 and while waiting patiently for the shipment, I started consuming numerous amount of content in the 3-D printing community. The Congrow Creality Ender 3 Pro is an under budget 3d printer for most people as it cost between $200 to 250$. With such a budget, it provides the best quality of 3d printed objects. However, there are. Creality 3D, an official 3d printer supplier dedicated to developing 3d Printer & filament design, sales, and distributing, now we are looking for distributor & reseller cooperations, check more details here.
Hi everyone! In this review, we will talk about the Creality Ender 3, a low budget FDM 3D printer produced by the Chinese manufacturer Creality. Well-known for its incredibly low price, this open-source cartesian-style 3D printer is one of the best and most affordable 3D printer kits currently available on the market. Open-source and easy-to-assemble, it supports virtually unlimited upgrades, which can make it capable of printing high-quality parts with ease.
Although the manufacturer has released two updated versions of their flagship model, the Ender 3 Pro and Ender-3X, the Creality Ender 3 keeps being a chart-topper.
In this Creality Ender 3 3D printer review, we will analyze the specs and features of this budget printer, trying to find out why it is so popular.
Source: www.creality3dshop.eu
Is the Creality Ender 3 good?
Wallet-friendly, infinitely hackable, and decently accurate, the Creality Ender 3 might sound too good to be true. That’s why lots of newbies frequently ask themselves: where is the catch?
Well, we can say it loud. There is no catch at all. The Creality Ender 3 is extremely good value for the money. It is a well-built, safe device that can produce good quality outputs with almost no effort. It benefits from quality-of-life features, including a power recovery function, a tight filament pathway, and a heated bed with a viscose surface sticker similar to the BuildTak one. Also, it offers a decent build volume of 220 x 220 x 250mm, which lets you easily print large parts in one go.
The machine prints well with a variety of filaments, including PLA, PETG, and ABS.
Source: amazon.com
Of course, it isn’t all puppies and rainbows. Indeed, the Creality Ender 3 does have some flaws, but none of them are insuperable. For example, it might experience some warping or adhesion issues when printing with ABS-type materials. Its irregular base could generate some wobbles. Also, it does require manual bed leveling. By the way, spending a little bit of time tweaking lets you solve almost any issue.
In short, considering its low price, the Creality Ender 3 is one of the best budget 3D printers you will ever put your hands on so far. No wonder that so many people have already chosen it.
Ender 3 specs and features
Let’s start with a brief overview of Creality Ender 3’s technical specifications.
Technical specs
- Technology: FDM (Fused Deposition Molding)
- Assembly: DIY Kit
- Frame: Aluminum
- Mechanical arrangement: Cartesian XZ-Head
- Layer height: 100 - 400 Microns
- Max. print speed: 200 mm/s
- Print precision: +/- 100 microns
- Extruder type: Single
- Feeder system: Bowden
- Max extruder temperature: 491 °F / 255 °C
- Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
- Filament: 1.75mm - PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU
- Print bed: Magnetic, removable heated bed with viscose surface sticker
- Max hot bed temperature: 110°C
- Bed leveling: Manual
- Print area: 220 x 220 x 250mm
- Connectivity: SD card, USB
- Display: LCD screen
- Additional features: Print recovery
And now, let’s dive into them to better understand their meaning.
The Creality Ender-3 is an FDM 3D printer. This means it prints parts by melting and extruding a thermoplastic filament through a heated single extruder equipped with a Bowden feeder system. The extruder module has been designed for printing with generic 1.75mm filaments, no matter the brand. The pathway between the Bowden extruder and the hot end is tight and narrow, this might help when printing flexible filaments but might cause some difficulties when trying to insert the consumable into the route.
Also, to effectively print with flexible materials, upgrading to an all-metal extruder, or switching to a Direct Drive system is preferable.
Source: creality3dshop.eu
Like in all the Cartesian-style printers, the Ender 3 print head moves along two axes, the X and Z axis, while the bed moves along the Y-axis. During its path, it gradually deposits the melted filament layer by layer. Depending on the height of each layer, you will get parts with a different level of detail. In particular, depending on your printing requirements, you can set the layer height between 100 to 400 microns. The lower the height, the higher the resolution.
The device can print parts at a maximum speed of 200mm/s.
Source: www.creality3dshop.eu
The Ender 3 consists of a metal structure. Both the frame and the Z-axis single leadscrew are made of aluminum. This results in a decently stable construction with reduced vibrations.
Credit: Instagram.com
The build volume of the printer is 220 x 220 x 250mm. The machine comes with a heated aluminum bed covered with a BuildTak-like sticky surface, which should make almost any print stick well to the bed without the need for hairspray or glue sticks.
However, switching from the stock bed to a glass or a magnetic flexible one seems to grant way better adhesion and low warping. No wonder that replacing the print bed is one of the most common Ender 3 upgrades.
Source: www.instagram.com
Ender 3 features
One of the main features that make this printer stand out from the competition surely is its low price tag. Some additional noteworthy features are the fully open-source system and the print recovery function.
The open-source system lets you conveniently mod the printer replacing its components or adding extra accessories leaving room for lots of upgrades and hacks.
Source: www.instagram.com
For example, one user hacked his Ender 3 revising the cooling fan shroud, adding a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint and a camera to always keep an eye on the printer. It also replaced the Bowden extruder with a Direct Drive kit.
With the right improvements, you will get a reliable 3D printer capable of producing high quality parts while granting stable performance over time.
Source: www.reddit.com
The print recovery feature prevents print failures due to power loss or accidental disconnection. It has been designed to immediately save the printing progress to let you restart the print job in a different moment, exactly from where it left off. A great feature for a budget device.
Ender 3 assembly: parts, manual and instructions
The Creality Ender 3 is a pre-assembled kit that ships flatpack. Some of its parts, such as the base unit and the hot end, come already assembled streamlining the assembly process. Indeed, to get the printer up and running you’ll only need to screw the main components together and plug some wires.
List of parts
The package contains all the necessary parts to set up the printer and some extra elements. It includes:
- frame components
- printer unit base
- LCD screen with a rotary knob
- spool holder
- USB power cable
- AC power cord
Source: iam3dpro.com
Besides the essential components required to assemble and operate the printer, the package also contains a sample of PLA filament, a USB stick with the user manual, the assembly instructions, a set of tools to build the device, a spatula for removing the prints from the bed, a needle for cleaning the nozzle, some useful spare parts (eg. spare nozzles), and an SD card with a card reader.
Unboxing, assembly, and first impression
Setting up the printer is not so difficult but requires some time. The shipping box includes an assembly manual that will guide you through the process. The Ender 3’s assembly instructions are broken down into 12 steps. Unfortunately, some of them are missing detailed explanations. This makes the setup slightly longer than expected.
All the components of the kit correctly fit together, without gaps. This reduces the odds of play. By assembling the printer on your own, you'll get solid knowledge of all its parts and how they interact together. This will streamline the upgrading process, giving you the possibility to modify the printer to fit your imagination.
The Creality Ender 3 manual is more than enough to successfully assemble the printer. However, to facilitate your work, have a look at this great step-by-step video tutorial. It will guide you through the entire assembly process letting you save some time.
Creality Ender 3: build quality and design
The Creality 3D Ender 3 is an open-frame all-metal 3D printer. The structural components are made of extruded aluminum. This makes the device stiff and sturdy resulting in stable performance. Thanks to its rigid base, you can comfortably move the machine around without the need for re-calibration.
The printer adopts V-slot aluminum channels and POM wheels for precise positioning and smooth motion. It features a single Z-axis leadscrew that relies on angled bearings. This system lets it keep the horizontal support perpendicular to the vertical one. The Ender 3 is engineered with a Bowden-style extruder with an aluminum channel. This results in greater rigidity and better print quality.
Source: letsprint3d.net
The base unit comes in one piece, housing both the power supply unit and the mainboard. This gives a compact and sleek look to the entire construction. The printer build platform is placed upon the base unit, making for more stability.
Unfortunately, the printer base is uneven. This might cause some wobble while printing. To solve the issue, you can place a small paper wedge or the black foam padding the printer comes with under the device. This will help reduce both vibrations and noise.
Source: www.reddit.com
The bed is manually calibrated. The leveling process can be performed using the large dials placed under each corner of the bed. Thanks to their large size, the knobs are extremely easy to turn, streamlining the overall calibration process. To check if the bed is properly leveled, you can move both the X and Y-axis to the corners using the integrated LCD control display.
Like in most Creality 3D printers, you will find the LCD display with a rotating knob on the right side of the machine. The screen is attached to the device. Easy to navigate, the control display lets you manage a variety of settings and keeps you updated on the printing progress.
The machine has a small footprint being a good fit for almost any tabletop. Its external dimensions are 439 x 409 x 465 mm. It only weighs 6.9 kg.
Software, firmware, and driver
Ender 3 slicing software
The Ender 3 is compatible with most of the common slicers available on the market, including Cura and Slic3r.
Source: additivenews.com
Using the popular Cura Slicer streamlines your 3D printing experience. This free and open-source program gives you wide control over the printing settings. It features ongoing upgrades and provides over 400 settings to fine-tune your print model and get optimum printing results.
Also, it includes a perfectly working pre-set Ender 3 printer profile. We will talk about it later in this review.
Creality Ender 3 software for 3D modeling
Before slicing your 3D model, you need to generate it. How to do that? Well, you need a 3D modeling software that lets you edit and sculpt watertight models suitable for 3D printing.
Meshmixer, Tinkercad, and Fusion 360 are some of the most common programs used by the 3D printing enthusiast community.
If you are a beginner, we suggest starting with Tinkercad, a browser-based 3D modeling software. Thanks to its ease of use, it is considered one of the best entry-level 3D modeling programs.
Source: chrome.google.com
In any case, you are free to use any other software capable of exporting watertight 3D models suitable for printing (STL, OBJ, etc.).
Ender 3 laser engraving software
If you are planning to upgrade your Ender 3 by installing the laser engraver upgrade kit, IMG2GCO might come in handy.
IMG2GCO is a script generator designed to control and use the laser engraving head, letting it move in a pattern. It doesn’t include any safety feature, that’s why it should be used only by expert users.
Creality Ender 3 OctoPrint
Last but not least, let’s talk about OctoPrint. It is one of the most recurring Creality Ender 3 upgrades. OctoPrint is an open-source, easy-to-install 3D print controller app. It enables Wi-Fi connection, giving you the possibility to remotely control your prints.
Source: https://octoprint.org
Creality Ender 3 firmware
The Creality Ender 3 comes stock with the popular Marlin firmware. Multiple Ender-3 reviewers suggest upgrading the stock firmware to get the most from your printer. Indeed, doing that will let you benefit from some extra features, including thermal runaway protection, manual mesh leveling, or BLTouch auto bed leveling.
If you are a tinkering type, you can easily update the Ender-3 Marlin firmware to benefit from some of these advanced features. Online you will find a lot of useful videos explaining the entire procedure.
If you need to restore the stock firmware, you can simply do that by downloading the original file on the Creality 3D official website.
Ender-3 driver
The Ender 3 features a mini USB port and an SD card reader. This lets you operate the printer from a USB-tethered computer or independently via a USB stick or an SD card.
Operating the printer via a USB-tethered is quite simple. You’ll only need to connect the machine to the computer via a USB cable. The printer uses an FTDI USB to Serial adapter chip driver, which automatically enables USB connection between the devices.
However, if the computer doesn’t recognize the printer, you might need to download and reinstall the driver to restore the connection.
What filament does the Creality Ender 3 use?
The Ender-3 is an open-source printer. It comes with a Bowden extruder that adopts PTFE tubing. For this reason, its hot end can only heat up to 255°C. Its operating temperature is ideal for printing with PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG, flexible and exotic filaments.
The brass nozzle makes for great printing performance with almost any consumables, except abrasive ones. The heated bed reaches a temperature of up to 110°C, making the printer compatible with ABS-type materials.
Thanks to its open nature, the Creality Ender 3 can print with almost any 3rd-party 1.75mm filament, providing you with a broad range of material choices. This results in high design flexibility.
Cura settings for the Ender 3
If you are planning to use your Ender 3 with the Cura Slicer, here you can find some useful info.
As already mentioned, the Cura library includes a default Ender 3 printer profile with pre-set values. The profile works really well, that’s why we strongly suggest loading it before launching your first print.
Follow these instructions to load the profile in your slicer:
- launch the program
- open the Settings menu
- click on Printer and then on Manage printer
Source: www.emcu.eu
in the preferences window, click on add and, then, add a non-networked printer
select Creality and then Ender 3
Source: www.emcu.eu
The profile includes all the main settings ideal for printing with the Ender 3 3D printer.
Ender 3 PLA, ABS, PETG settings
Here are some recommended settings for successful PLA, ABS, and PETG printing on your Creality Ender 3.
PLA settings
- Printing Temperature: 200 °C
- Bed Temperature: 50 °C
- Speed: 60 mm/s
- Layer height for fine detail: 0.12 mm
- Retraction: 6 mm @ 25 mm/s
- Infill for decorative parts: 10%
- Infill for standard parts: 20%
- Infill for functional parts: 40%
- Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
- Number of slow layers: 5
- Initial Fan Speed: 0%
ABS settings
- Printing Temperature: 230 °C
- Bed Temperature: 110 °C
- Speed: 60 mm/s
- Layer height for fine detail: 0.12 mm
- Retraction: 6 mm @ 40mm/s
- Infill for decorative parts: 10%
- Infill for standard parts: 20%
- Infill for functional parts: 40%
- Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
- Number of slow layers: 5
- Initial Fan Speed: 0%
PETG settings
- Printing Temperature: 240 °C
- Bed Temperature: 70 °C
- Speed: 40 mm/s
- Layer height for fine detail: 0.12 mm
- Retraction: 4 mm @ 25 mm/s
- Infill for decorative parts: 10%
- Infill for standard parts: 20%
- Infill for functional parts: 40%
- Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
- Number of slow layers: 5
- Initial Fan Speed: 0%
Source: www.emcu.eu
Add them into Cura to start printing with your preferred filaments flawlessly.
How to improve print quality: Ender 3 upgrades and mods
The Creality Ender 3 is a great printer capable of producing good quality parts out of the box. Being an open-source device, it leaves room for lots of hacks that might improve its functionality and performance.
Ender 3 upgrade kits
Some upgrade kits are available directly on the official Creality 3D store, others might be available from 3rd-party vendors.
If you are interested in them, here is a short list of the upgrades you should have a look to:
3D printable Ender 3 upgrades
Besides paid improvements, there are a lot of upgrades that can be self-produced directly on your Ender 3.
- Petsfang duct: it is an upgraded duct designed to improve the airflow from the extruder to the printed model.
- Board fan guard: this guard protects both the board and the fan from dust and debris.
- Cable chain: this improvement has been designed to keep wires and cables in order to prevent snags during bed movement.
- Filament guide: it keeps the consumable away from the feeder, making for smoother extrusion.
- Display PCB cover: it is ideal to protect the Printed Circuit Board from outside damage.
- Belt tensioner: it lets you adjust the tension of the belts of both X and Y axes.
- Bowden tube pressure fitting fix: it holds the Bowden tube in place while printing.
- Beeper silencer: it reduces the volume of the LCD display clicks.
You can find most of these printable upgrades using our 3D printer files search engine. Just type the name of the part in the search bar and browse the results.
What is the difference between Creality Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender-3X?
As already mentioned, Creality 3D released a couple of upgraded versions of the Ender 3, namely the Ender 3 Pro and the Ender-3X.
Unlike the original Ender 3, the Creality Ender 3 Pro features an improved 40x40 aluminum extrusion for the Y-axis. It makes the printer more rigid and stable, enhancing print quality.
Source: www.creality3dshop.eu
It replaces the standard metal bed with a magnetic print bed, the C-Mag. Detachable and flexible, this print bed facilitates print removal. In the 3 Pro, the board fan is placed at the bottom of the printer. Last but not least, the Ender 3 Pro is equipped with an improved Meanwell Power Supply Unit, which is thinner and quieter than the one used on the Ender 3.
The Ender-3X comes with a tempered glass bed, which is also considered a must-have upgrade for the standard Ender-3. The glass plate enhances printing adhesion while facilitating the removal of the printed parts. The 3X also includes an MK-10 extruder, a V-slot with POM wheels, and a set of 5 additional nozzles.
Source: www.creality3dofficial.com
Considering the features and the prices of the three models, purchasing an Ender-3 and upgrade it seems to be the best bang for the buck.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Open-source
- Highly upgradable
- Decent price point
Cons:
- Prints can be difficult to remove from the plate
- Might need some tinkering
Print examples
The Creality Ender 3 can boast decent accuracy, especially after a lot of tinkering. Take a look at these models and check out their good surface finish:
Source: www.instagram.com
Source: www.instagram.com
Source: www.instagram.com
Source: www.instagram.com
Conclusion
The Creality Ender 3 is a valuable Do It Yourself 3D printer. Sold at an incredibly low price, it includes a set of quality features generally found in more expensive FDM printers. Its open-source nature gives you the opportunity to turn into a real workhorse. The upgradability, quality, and compatibility with several materials make it worth its price.
The Creality Ender 3 is a great choice for both newbies who love making their hands dirty and tinkerers. You can purchase it on Top3DShop.
In this guide, I show you how to install Marlin 2.0 firmware on the Ender 3 or the Ender 3 Pro.
Read the full transcript below if you prefer a written version.
Hello, my name is Daniel, welcome to the CrossLink channel. I would like to help you being more successful with 3d printing and if you're here for the first time, subscribe and hit the bell notification icon so you don't miss anything.
So why you should upgrade your firmware to Marlin 2.0?
First of all, enabling thermal runaway protection should be your main concern regarding safety features. Many printer manufacturers, still forget to activate this by default.
But you will also be able to unlock new features for your printer like mesh bed leveling for better first layer results or power loss recovery to resume failed prints or support for bed leveling sensors or linear advance for better print quality, just to name a few.
And in general with affordable 3D printers, it's like with affordable Android phones. Once they are released, it's very unlikely that the manufacturer will ever release a firmware upgrade and mostly the printers will ship with firmware that is already outdated when you buy it.
If you wanna learn more about the pros and cons of uprading to Marlin 2.0 vs. staying with an older version, watch this video here, where I elaborate in depth about this topic and more important things to know.
So, let's talk about the prerequisites for flashing Marlin 2.0 to this printer.
You will need to have a bootloader installed on your mainboard.
How Do I know, if I have a bootloader?
This question is really important because having a bootloader is a prerequisite to be able to flash firmware to your printer using just a USB cable connected directly between your computer and your printer.
So how can you know if your printer mainboard has a bootloader on it? - Actually you can't. It's not possible to tell unless you just try it out using the USB cable.
But the good thing is - you can't break anything physically by just trying it out.
I have made a video to explain how you can flash a bootloader to these mainboards. It's linked in the info card up here.
If you find out that you're not able to flash firmware using a USB cable, go and install a bootloader first and then come back to this video and continue from here.
Ok, with this out of the way, let's continue with the setup.
You need to download the Marlin Firmware from github to your computer, either on a Mac or PC. The github link is in the description of this video.
On the Marlin github page, first click on the Branch button and then select the bugfix-2.0.x version. We wanna make sure, we get the latest version with all the latest bugfixes.
Then, click on the 'Clone or download' button and select to download a zip file.
After that's done unpack the downloaded zip file into a folder on your computer.
Now there is one major thing that has changed since January 2020.
The printer specific configuration files that we need as a starting point - they used to be in this config folder of the Marlin repository - but they have been moved to another location - another github repository.
So what does it mean for you?
It means you have to go to this second github page, which is the Configurations repository.
Now, this is really important, don't just download a zip file from there without this next step.
Klick on the Branch button and select the bugfix-2.0.x version from that list.
Now, click on the 'Clone or download button' and select to get a zip file from there.
Inside of this second repository - once you unzipped it to a different folder on your computer - you will find the configuration files that you're looking for.
Navigate to the examples->Creality->Ender 3 subfolder. There is no seperate folder for the Ender 3 Pro btw.
Copy all files from this folder into the Marlin folder that is located inside the Marlin repository. Make sure you confirm to overwrite all existing files.
In the previous guides to flash Marlin firmware, I have used the Arduino IDE for compiling and flashing Marlin firmware and this is still possible but the recommended way for the future is to use Visual Studio Code with PlatformIO, which I will show you in this video.
So, let's first make sure to install visual studio code from www.visualstudio.com.
Make sure you don't accidently select the full blown visualstudio for pc or visualstudio for mac if you're a mac user. Visual Studio Code is the thing that we need and that works.
After installing visual studio code, you need to launch it for the first time and open the extensions tab on the left hand side of the window.
In the search field, enter 'platformio' and then select 'PlatformIO IDE' from the results list.
Now, click the 'Install' button and wait until the installation process is finished. Don't launch any other installation at the same time and make sure, you don't close visual studio code until it's done installing.
There might be a message saying 'Please restart VSCode' after the installation. If you see this, please close Visual Studio Code and launch it again.
After the installation is finished, click on the extensions tab of visual studio code again and search for the extension 'auto build marlin'.
Install this extension by clicking 'install'.
Now, we are ready to do the final touches to our Marlin configuration before we will upload it to the mainboard.
First, open the Marlin folder in visual studio code by clicking the folder icon in the left menu bar and then clicking 'Open Folder'.
Navigate to the folder, where you have unzipped the Marlin files into, don't navgate further into any subfolder there and click 'select folder' to open it.
Now, you can already test, if everything is set up correctly and your're able to build the firmware.
Go to the left menu bar again and click the large 'M' button. This takes you to the Auto Build Marlin extension.
Here, hit the build button in the header of the upper section that is named 'Build…'. The buttons will show as soon as you move your mouse cursor into the section and will be hidden otherwise, so don't be confused if you don't seen them right away.
A net tab will open and ask you for a specific environment for build.
Select the Build button for the sanguino1284p because the Ender 3 models have an ATmega1284p processor.
The build will then start in the terminal tab and depending on your computer's performance can take up to a few minutes. Especially in the first run, it will need to install several software packages from the internet, so please make sure you are connected.
After the build has finished, you will see a list of results. Please scroll up a little bit until you see the amount of program memory used by this build.
Ender 3 Slicer Software
This will tell you how much memory you can still use for other features and the default configuration shows already, that there is not much room left, so we might have to address this later if we enable more functionalities than the available program memory can take.
For the starters, please at this point don't enable any additional features yet. I am stressing this in pretty much every video about firmware flashing because I like to test things individually and enable one feature at a time to be sure, I know what change in the configuration caused a particular problem during the build or upload process. So unless you already have some experience, keep the default configuration at this point and let's continue with that.
Now it's time to flash the firmware to your printer.
Turn your printer on and connect it to your computer using the USB cable.
Now, in visual studio code, in the Auto Build Marlin Tab, click the 'Upload' button that's next to the sanguino1284p Build Button.
After the build has been finished, the firmware will be uploaded to your printer and you will see that it is finished in the terminal tab.
If you run into issues like this one saying that the port has been detected but there is still a not in sync problem, this is an indication that your bootloader needs to be re-installed. Please install the bootloader using one of the instruction videos, I have linked in the video description.
Also, Your printer will be rebooting after the firmware has been flashed successfully.
You might see that after the reboot you get an error message on your printer's display saying 'Err: EEPROM Version'.
This happens when you upgrade from an older version of Marlin firmware to 2.0 and you can resolve it quickly by entering the printer menu, then going to the configuration menu and finally entering the Advanced Settings menu. Scroll down to the bottom until you select the 'Initialize EEPROM item'. You then have to highlight the Init item using the control dial and finally push it to confirm. There will be no visual confirmation unfortunately.
Power off your printer and power back on to see whether this was successful. Now you should get 'Ender 3 ready' instead of the error message.
Great, this is already a very important milestone. However we didn't not yet make any adjustments to the configuration, which you might need. We will start doing this right now.
Navigate to the folder menu in visualstudio.
Expand the Marlin subfolder. You should see the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h files.
Open the Configuration.h file by clicking it.
If you have installed the new silent mainboard 1.1.5, this part of the video applies to you, otherwise you may skip ahead one minute.
We will enable support for the new stepper drivers on the 1.1.5 mainboard first, to make sure, Marlin uses those drivers correctly.
By opening the Edit Menu click the 'Find' Menu-Item, You will also see, what keyboard shortcut you can use on PC or Mac for each menu option, which might be different.
Search for TMC2208 and hit enter.
Ender 3d Printing Software
This takes you to the section, where the stepper drivers are configured. It tells you that by default it is assumed that A4988 drivers are being used if nothing else is configured.
Select and copy the TMC2208_STANDALONE term and overwrite the A4988 text of the X_DRIVER, Y_DRIVER, Z_DRIVER and E0_DRIVER - TYPE config item.
Also uncomment all these changed lines so they get activated, otherwise they will still be ignored.
Ok, stepper drivers are configured correctly.
I would suggest to enable a feature, which I use all the time on printers that don't have a bed leveling probe and that is Mesh Bed Leveling.
Creality Ender 3 Pro - Best Budget 3D Printers For 2021, Best ...
However, this guide will not explain how to use mesh bed leveling. I already published another video about this, it's linked in the info card up here.
Let's first start with enabling the MESH_BED_LEVELING feature around Line 1214 of Configuration.h.
By the way, if you can't find the option that I am referring to, because the line numbers might have changed in the meanwhile, try the search option using the Edit→Find Menu or the corresponding Keyboard shortcut. Enter the term you are looking for in the popup, so for example MESH_BED_LEVELING and use the arrow buttons to jump to the next occurence, if there is multiple hits for that search term. And there you are.
Right below that in line 1220, enable RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28. This will make sure, that every time a print starts, your mesh bed leveling configuration is activated automatically, so it loads all the points that you have calibrated and uses them for the upcoming print.
Then jump to line 1319 and enable LCD_BED_LEVELING.
This will add a menu item to your printer's menu to be able to actually control and configure bed leveling using the printer menu.
Good, now save your changes to this configuration file by using the File->Save menu item or the corresponding shortcut. You will see that once you have unsaved changes in a file, there will be a white dot nearby the file name in the open tabs. As soon as the file is saved, this dot will disappear.
Let's try to upload this new version of Marlin firmware to the printer by using the Auto Build Marlin menu again.
And it failed, so let's look for the reason.
And here we have the issue, we ran out of memory by this amount of bytes. This means, we will have to find one or multiple unused or non functional features in our Marlin configuration, that we can disable to free up enough memory.
I have written a blog post, that I've linked in the description of this video, where I break down all the potential features that you might at some point want to enable in Marlin 2.0 and what other features you could potentially disable to free up enough memory to be able to compile the firmware.
There is also a sample calculation for MESH_BED_LEVELING in the previously mentioned combination and what features you may disable to get it compiled, so let's do exactly that.
So taking those recommendations, I am disabling ARC_SUPPORT in Configuration_adv.h
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And I am also disabling SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN in Configuration.h.
Don’t forget so save your changes for both files and let's try uploading that again.
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And yes, it compiles and uploads to the printer, great. Time for a test print with the new firmware.
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